no car in los angeles
2003 was a bad year car-wise. It started off
in Jan with two accidents, I served as victim
in each and there was more bad news in Feb
by way of a power steering problem.
Sometimes you have a problem and in goes
the car to the mechanic and he fixes the
problem and a week later you have the same
problem but the mechanic says its not the
same problem, it only seems the same, he
explains why and you must pay again.

In this way I had to fork over $900 for the
power steering problem. The year continued.
Its an old car—an ‘88 Honda accord plagued
with the usual nagging minor repairs--any
thing under $200. For example: to replace a
fan belt switch. Why does it cost $200 to
replace a switch?

The mechanic was Arman--the Armenian. I
liked the guy. I’d had him for a few years, he
knew his stuff and, very important, he was
reliable. If he said today it was today and not
next week and if he said tomorrow it was
tomorrow. He seemed honest—for a
mechanic. I leave it for you to interpret the
implications of that remark. From time to
time—following some gigantic bill--he would
throw in a minor repair or adjustment
gratis

In this way I finished out 2003. Into 2004.
2004 started out the way 2003 ended. I got a
speeding ticket to the tune of $160, plus $60
for traffic school, plus $3 for an atm charge
over at the bank across the street from traffic
school because traffic school doesn’t accept
credit cards.

The registration was due. It  was a smog
check year and I had misgivings about this
one that proved correct. I failed the test and
turned the car over to Armen for an
upgrade--$250 worth.  Back to the smog
check guy—referred to by Armen, by the
way—and I failed for the second time. On the
bottom of the smog test printout were
highlighted the words “gross polluter”

Back to Armen.  “Armen—what gives?”

He said: “Its Sacramento. They have beefed
up the specs on these old cars”.

He made some adjustments—gratis—and
back to Antal—where I failed the test.  I
stood there looking at him. He looked at me.
It was the blank look of a smog check guy to
the owner of an ‘88 Honda with 140,000
miles that had failed his third smog check
and there was nothing to be said.  But I said
it anyway. We went back and forth for a bit
and I could feel my arteries plugging,
growing another few centimeters of gunk.

I got in the car and didn’t return to Armen. I
wasn’t in the mood. I drove around for a bit.
I drove into Hollywood and down Fairfax and
had a coffee at the Farmers Market.

I reviewed the situation. Maybe I should buy
a new car. I had the money. I could fork over
$20,000 for a snappy Volkswagen Passat
with a splendid warranty and my car
problems were over. I briefly visualized
inserting myself into one of these machines
every morning and when I turned the key in
the ignition the car fired up at once—
brilliantly.

But there are ways of spending money and
there are ways of spending money and to
dump 20 grand into a new car that turns into
15 grand the minute you drive it off the lot
was a loser.

What about another used car--a good used
car. But was there such a thing? The Honda
was a good used car. The mileage was
100,000 when I bought it. But I bought it
from Joanne, a librarian who worried about
things like air pressure in the tires and an oil
change every 3,000 miles. 100,000 miles on
a car driven by Joanne was like 10,000 miles
driven by someone else.

So I bought the car and as soon as I bought it
it forgot it had ever been driven by a
librarian. It was one thing after another
starting with  a brake job for $250, followed
by a cooling system problem for $350,
followed by a suspension problem for $450.  
Then I almost got killed when a tire blew on
the freeway. Put it all together and its called:
bad luck.

Time passed.  I got word of an agency in
Sacramento—BAR—Bureau of Auto Repair--a
division of Consumer Affairs that was
sponsoring some type of smog check
amnesty program. All you need do is fire off a
few e-mails and fill out a small mountain of
paperwork and pay a visit to the  smog check
test facility  down at LA Trade Tech to be
interviewed by a “referee” and then wait two
months for the verdict.

Meanwhile a plan was evolving. I had a
friend—Paul the painter.  Some years ago
Paul was in the same boat—car problems--
and he got the bright idea to forget the car
and bus it for a while. A stunning concept: no
car in Los Angeles. There was  a consensus
on this one which was:  it could not be done.  
But it could be done. It was done by Paul.

He did it for a year and it was during this
time, the sabbatical from the car, demanding
a radical shift in the routine, and one result
was: he discovered a different city. He was
bussing it and taking these walks and there
was a process involved that suggested  some
painting ideas—-a landscape series-—very
cool. I bought one for myself.

That was the first time. There was a second
time a few years later. I said to him: “Its
possible you will be remembered more for
this one—to bus it in Los Angeles—than for
your paintings”.

Time passed. I was still waiting for word
from Sacramento and meanwhile my
registration had expired and I was driving
around without tags.

One day the  letter arrives and miracle of
miracles my application is accepted, I am
legit, and all that remains is to send them
$25 for the fee. There were two letters that
day, both car related—the other an  insurance
invoice from 21st Century for the premium
due (semi-annual)--$475

I thought about Paul. I was a senior, the
price for a monthly bus pass  was $12 and
now we had a subway, the red line, to factor
in another variable to the mass transit
equation

Over I drove to  the metro transit center
corner LaBrea/Wilshire and got my picture
taken and a card issued and forked over $12
for my first monthly pass. I was actually
excited.

The first ride. This was a ride I was to take
many times—the #16 west on Third from
Kenmore to the Farmers Market at Third and
Fairfax

I had the advantage, bus-wise, of living in a
poor neighborhood—where the average
couple produced 3.67 children but owned
0.67 cars. What it added up to was: good bus
service

It was 7pm and, according to the schedule, a
nine minute interval between buses. This
meant I could leave the house at a random
moment and the average wait time for the
bus would be 4.5 minutes.

I walked to the corner, up one block  to
Alexandria  and here was the bus.

I boarded and flashed my pass and took a
seat up front in one of the triples reserved for
senior/disabled. I squeezed myself in
between two women and this was my first
bus riding thought: whose ass was it to serve
as template for the design of these seats?  It
was the ass of a 12 year old boy. Later I
would see women of such size in this dept,
the ass dept, and they would plop down on  a
double and one cheek went left and the other
right and it was still a tight squeeze.

Off we went. I sat observing  my fellow
passengers. It was a classic LA mix--
Mexicans, Koreans, blacks, Filipinos,
Armenians, Cambodians, a Hindu, Samoan,
etc—and me—whitey

On with the ride. the driver was a young guy
plugged into a cell phone talking to his
girlfriend. Traffic  was light and this guy was
flying. He was behind schedule. That was my
thought. But—as I was later to learn—he
wasn’t behind schedule. they all drove this
way.

On with the ride. Not much of a ride. There
were stops at Normandy and western but
once past Wilton and into Hancock Park,
yuppie country, where the average family
owns 3.67 cars—it was a blur. There was a
stop at Larchmont and another at La Brea and
there we were at the market. Time elapsed--
13  minutes.

In my car it was nine minutes.

I had a coffee at the Market and farted
around the Grove. Nordstrom  was having a
shoe sale. Here was a pair of shoes—Allan
Edmonds, marked  down at 30% off from
$240 to $180. Nice. To buy or no? I had this
extra $475 burning a hole in my pocket due
to the non-payment of car insurance. It was a
thought.

I left the store and crossed Third, over to the
stop in front of Ross Dress For Less—and here
was the bus. This time there were no seats.
We were jammed in like sardines--providing
me with my first insight bus-wise: to avoid
the eastbound 16 on Third st just before
closing time at Ross Dress For Less.

The second ride: I went to the library--
downtown. I never went to the library
downtown because parking was a misery
and I didn’t take the bus because I had a car.
It wasn’t done. You stayed home. But now  
the car was a non-issue and I could take the
bus. I jumped on the 16 eastbound that—13
minutes later--dropped me off corner
Sixth/Hope—1/2 block from the library.

Ride #3:—Eagle Rock. I had friends in Eagle
Rock and there was a birthday party. They
offered a ride but I said no: I will bus it. I
grabbed the 344 south on Normandy for four
blocks to Wilshire, jumped on the Red Line to
Union Station.

I never went to Union Station in the car. It
was a pointless thing to do.  But there I was
in this amazing building—-more than a
building:  a space. The light was gorgeous.  I
wandered around for a bit.

Onto Eagle Rock. I took the Gold Line to
Highland Park, walked over to Fig and caught
the 181 north into Eagle Rock and got off two
blocks from the house. Time elapsed: 55
minutes. By car it was 25 minutes.

Now I posed a question: what was my
preference—to spend 55 minutes on the bus
in a meditative state--reading, thinking,
napping—or 25 minutes behind the wheel of
the car in a vicious mood with one thought
percolating in my skull: kill

So it went—riding the bus. My thought was to
give it a year. It was an experiment. But it
didn’t take a year to appreciate the wisdom
of this  decision.

Money. Take gas, insurance and
maintenance/repair, the odd traffic citation,
etc, and I was saving $300 a month. I could
have done this 5 years ago and to take the
money and invest in a couple good small cap
stocks and I would be sitting pretty.

Convenience. The bus  covers the city, there
are 435 routes plus the subway, and you
have DASH--the little neighborhood buses.
They run every twenty minutes and the
average passenger count is 6.

Service. Here it helps to live in a poor
neighborhood. Service is more frequent in K-
town than Brentwood. But for myself,
following a year of taking the bus on many
different lines to many different parts of the
city I would put the average wait time at 7
minutes

Stress. I wont comment on the incidents of
road rage I no longer had to involve myself
with because you can supply your own.

You will never be bored. I was a writer.
What does a writer do?  They watch people.

For example: I took my usual seat, the
senior/disabled behind the driver, studying
the woman opposite, sitting on a large
mouthful of gum carefully placed by a
teenager. We didn’t know this at the time.  
Then she rose to get off and the chewing gum
followed her—-still stuck to the seat and her
bottom both but no one points this out
because its embarrassing. Gum is a resinous
compound  with amazing properties of
elasticity but this was spectacular. Out this
wad strings itself--out, out, out and to loop
around the post and follows her out the door
and the doors shut themselves on the gum
and the bus continues on.

The precocious child. It was raining--a
downpour. Across the street a man and
young girl running for the bus. The  driver
waits.  The street is a river. They scoot across
dodging a few cars and scramble aboard and
plop down on the seat opposite myself. The
girl is 11 or 12. They are drenched--soaked to
the skin. The girl looks at her father and says:
“That was quite an adventure!”

The woman with the healthiest gums in Los
Angeles. I board the bus at the Market,
returning home east on Third St. Here is a
woman opposite flossing her teeth. She is
flossing away with a piece 18 inches long.
Back and forth she flosses, stops for a bit,
begins again. So it went, with her flossing
along and she was still at it when I got off at
my stop 23 blocks later.

To counsel a drunk. The drunk gets on and
launches into a rambling conversation with
the driver—a big mama type.  Now the drunk
says: “Should I get married—what do you
think?” Pause. And now the driver says: “I’m
not walking in your shoes”.  Another pause
while this one sinks in and he continues with
the monologue.  His stop arrives and he gets
off and to the driver I say: “That was the
perfect reply”. She said: “I decided to be
kind. What I should have said was: ‘get
married if you like but don’t, under any
circumstances, have children’”.

Time passed. I was desperate to play some
golf. The Mexicans crossed themselves when
the bus passed a church and I crossed myself
when it passed Wilshire Country Club. That
was the downside of this project.  My regular
course was Brookside in Pasadena where
there were no lockers to keep my gear. I
switched to Rancho in West LA—-a terrific
course but slow. The average round took five
hours and sometimes six. Rancho  routinely
copped the award for the most heavily played
course in the country—-155,000
rounds/year.  

One weekend I jumped on line and Enterprise
was offering a special, 3 days for $9.99/day.
This was interesting. Thanks to the Internet
car rental rates had plunged and now every
weekend there was some sort of special
going on and you could rent a car for three
days  for $10 or $12 or $14/day plus free
milage and—get this—no insurance. The
insurance was covered by Visa. I rode the
bus but I carried in my wallet six credit
cards-—all platinum.

I reserved a car and picked it up Friday
morning and headed east to Ontario to play a
round at Goose Creek. Saturday I played Lost
Canyons in Simi Valley and Sunday it was up
to Santa Barbara to play Robinson Ranch and
the golf was great but nothing about driving
the car had changed: it was all still there--
the  hideous traffic and the revolting
behavior of the people and the vast amount
of time pissed away in a vicious mood trying
to get from point B to point A.

I sold the Honda. I got $1,200.

I began to think of the bus as a giant cab.
The  difference was: you went to meet the
cab instead of vice versa and you shared the
ride.  

Some observations:

The bus driver.  The job is  generally thought
to be a horrible job.  That was the way I
conceived it. But I rode the bus and as I did
my attitude changed and a different
perspective on the job was revealed.  It was
a good job—even cool.  Think of it this way.
There you are behind the wheel, up high,  
comfortably installed and  the street spread  
out in front of you panavision style and you’
ve got your cell phone, I-pod and bottle of
water, the pedal is to the metal hurtling along
at 70 km/hr in this beast--14 tons of beast
not including people—and you are the boss.
You are king of the road. It isn’t you that
concerns yourself with the car. The car
concerns itself with you. Don’t mess with the
bus!          

The drivers were great. I took hundreds of
rides with hundreds of drivers and I found
them to  be polite, helpful, patient. Many
times I saw the driver take the time to
counsel some befuddled soul--lost, confused,
drunk, or all the above, patiently doing his or
her best to help  

Passengers.  You get a cuckoo-head from
time to time and if you are a photographer of
the Diane Arbus type the opportunities are
unlimited, but  the people are cool.  Its  95%
working stiffs  and women shopping with
their children. They are concerned with one
thing—the getting to point b from point a in a
timely manner with a minimum of fuss. I rode
the bus for a year and  failed to witness one
stabbing, incident of gunplay, punchout or
the being covered with vomit from a drunk.   

The cell phone.  cell phone abuse was less
than  anticipated. Plus 90% occurred in a
foreign tongue.  

Shopping. Shopping is not a problem. You
cant get a futon aboard but I have seen
people come close. There was the woman at
Target who came aboard lugging a comforter
and two  12 packs of paper towels  

Where else do so many opportunities for a
good deed present themselves? To spring for
a fare for a homeless type or give your seat
to a  pregnant woman with four small
children or to aid the blind, crippled,
deformed, aging, retarded.

A large percentage of my fellow riders
seemed to be suing people.

Now that I had no car I did
more things. I
have mentioned the library and Union
Station. Also: Chinatown, Long Beach, the
Biltmore hotel, the Getty, Venice Beach and a
few others.  

On the bus listen in on a conversation
between two homeless types on the subject
of world affairs.  It’s a pitiful thing to hear.
Now compare that conversation to another
conversation on the same subject between
two of your friends—-your highly educated
and  extravagantly living yuppie friends of
exquisite taste.  It’s the same conversation.  

Some dos and donts

Always greet the driver upon boarding the
bus and thank him or her at the end of the
ride. I always say: “Thank you—-driver”  
They like that.

If there are no seats move to the rear of the
bus. Why people insist on jamming
themselves together like sardines in the front
of the bus when there are seats to be had in
the back of the bus remains a mystery.  

Don’t take the aisle seat if the window seat
is  empty. Its rude.

When coughing, cover your mouth with your
hand.

If you must speak on the cell phone try using
One of those ear piece devices with the tiny
mike you can press to the lips to speak in  a
soft voice and in this way  we can be spared
the intimate details of your miserable life.

On a crowded bus the wallet goes in the side
pocket.

Don’t look for the bus. The watched pot
doesn’t boil.

Don’t run for the bus. There will always be  
another.  

Conclusions

The car was invented and perceived as a
symbol—of freedom and liberation. And
indeed it was—magnificently so.  But
somewhere along the line this vision has
been perverted and no longer applies. It has
become some other thing—quite a different
thing—that you can call what you will but
never liberation.

So I have taken action, to  deliver myself
from the tyranny of this machine and
everything that associates with it—the traffic,
the price of gas, the relentless creeping
upward of my blood pressure, the insurance
premiums, the miserable clutches of Armen
and the smog check Nazis in Sacramento, etc,
etc and it turns out to be an inspired
thought—-brilliant and even sweet. I am a
new man.
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